There are so many ways one could approach a biography of fashion designer Yves Saint-Laurent. The prodigy was hired by Christian Dior at 18 and took over the famed French haute couture house by 21. He was a cultural pioneer, an art collector, a lover, a shy, absorbed savant, a tortured man who forever longed for lost youth. L’amour fou, Pierre Thoretton’s documentary about the designer, focuses on Saint-Laurent’s long relationship to Pierre Bergés. Saint-Laurent met Bergés soon after the death of Dior, and he became for the designer a lover and a business manager, a confident, and a surrogate parent. The picture that emerges of Bergés in the movie is one of a cool-hearted, yet undeniably loyal companion. “I do not believe in the soul,” Bergés says at one point, and you wonder what kind of comfort this man could offer the troubled designer whose work reflected such a brilliant inner spark.
If the story line sounds familiar, it is because the relationship between Saint-Laurent and Bergés is remarkably similar to the relationship between another fashion designer, Valentino, and his long time lover, Giancarlo Giammetti, which Matt Tyrnauer brilliantly captures in his documentary, Valentino: The Last Emperor. As with the Italian designer, Bergés emerges as the man who kept Saint-Laurent’s life from unraveling, from running the business end of his fashion house to struggling through the designer’s drug and alcohol phases, not to mention a life-long bout of melancholy. L’amour fou tells us the story of Saint-Laurent’s life primarily through interviews with Bergés and lots of photo montages. And with the cagey Bergés as our guide, the view of Saint-Laurant and the relationship with Bergés is not quite sanitized, but it never feels particularly honest either.
To fill in the gaps in the story Bergés tells us, Thoretton tries to convey his impression of this love and life through the movie’s tone, and here he succeeds in creating an undeniably beautiful picture. There are long shots of street scenes, many panning shots through the couple’s luxurious apartments, and lingering views of their many works of art. The art collection is a major character here. After Saint-Laurent dies, Bergés decides to sell their art, which is a magnificent (an unthinkably valuable) collection that includes just about every major painter of the 20th century. Bergés explains that if he had died, Saint-Laurent would never had sold the work. But then he never offers much of an explanation as to why he can so quickly and callously let go of their life. It just adds to the impenetrable aura that surrounds the calculating Bergés in this movie, which has zeroed in on a fascinating, complicated, and conflicted love story, but never quite finds a way to tell the whole tale.